I was trying out the BOSS tone studio before I bought my BOSS RC-3 looper pedal. I wanted to see if there were loops I could use before I got the pedal. The software doesn’t let you download the loops without the pedal plugged in.
What I realised though, is if you use a USB or SD Card and rename it BOSS_RC_3, and then create the same directory structure, you can download all the loops without the pedal.
Every since I first came across the Fano SP6, I’ve wondered if it was possible to build something similar. It’s a really great looking design, half Les Paul Jr. and half Telecaster. It took me a while to find any parts that would suit this, so I thought I’d list them out here so it’s easier for you all to find:
Update: Hotone have now made one of these, check out their Tuner Press.
Here’s a quick video of a 2 in 1 Volume and Expression pedal. Like a wah it has a footswitch built in that lets you switch between volume mode and expression mode without switching cables. I modified a bespeco weeper wah to build this which is a switchable volume/wah.
– It had a dual pot which meant I only needed a 3PDT switch, but I had a 4PDT, so I could add an LED in the future.
– If you only have a single pot, you need a 4PDT to do the switching.
– Mine is a buffered volume pedal, with true bypass switching, in case something fails I can bypass everything.
– You could easily modify it to be buffered bypass so that tone stays consistent between switching
– If you had a 500K pot you could probably get away with no buffer, although in expression mode it would then be 500K, and most expression inputs specify for 10K to 100K. It should work, but might not work in every circumstance.
I haven’t had time to do a schematic, so the pictures will have to do:
Been doing a little bit of research for a partscaster I’m building, and found some of the forums have mixed information about what is truly Fender’s medium jumbo frets. Anyway found that the fret wire they sell as medium jumbo is .103″ (2.62mm) wide and.046″ (1.17mm) tall according to this link on fender.com:
I recently swapped my the strings on my guitar from Cleartones to D’Addario NYXL. Here are a quick few thoughts comparing the two:
– Cleartone strings definitely lasted a long time with showing much corrosion
– Cleartone were definitely louder, I was surprised how noticeable this was
– Cleartone were louder in the fundamental, but NYXL had more harmonics
– Cleartone were much higher tension for the same string gauge and required a new setup in order to have correct intonation. The high tension also made it harder to play and felt like I was playing a higher string gauge.
Overall I think NYXL sound much more like conventional nickel strings, because of the balance between the fundamental note and harmonic content. I understand that for some styles of music, some might prefer the sound of Cleartone strings, but for me, I’ll definitely be sticking with the NYXLs.
YouTube recently changed the default settings for channels (including those that already had links enabled) so that social media links don’t show up on your channel banner. To enable these, here’s what you have to do.
I’ve been experimenting with some of the cheap class d amplifier boards available on eBay from china. This is the PAM8610 board with a Wampler Euphoria clone as a preamp. I added a footswitch that footswitches between clean and overdrive. It switches between two separate gain pots for clean and overdrive, removes the clipping diodes for clean, and adds a lead master in overdrive mode. I did some tests with this setup in separate enclosures, and there was very little hum, but as you can see from the video, there is tons when in the same enclosure. Maybe I have something poorly soldered, or maybe things are just too close together. Still it would be cool if a real manufacturer did something like this and sorted out all the issues because it doesn’t sound bad other than the hum. I might get another one of the boards and put it by itself in it’s own box. I’m powering it with a Mooer 2000mA power supply, but a one spot or anything over 1000mA should work, and it should take anything up to 12V.
Here’s some pics of the project. Notice I had to cut some of the plastic housing from the input jack, as well as bend the legs to make it all fit. The chassis is grounded, but the speaker output is isolated from the chassis. I kind of wish I’d used the deeper 1590BS instead of a 1590B so that there was a little more room.
I had the idea that it might be more useful to have an overdrive with a contour control rather than a traditional tone control on it. I found this mid boost/cut circuit and added an overdrive section to it. It’s no the best sounding overdrive in the world, but here’s the schematic and a quick demo.